How to clean & repair the rear brake switch

Like a lot of you, I generally jump on the VTR, fire it up and ride. However, the Motorcycle Safety Class (I took) teaches you to run through a "pre-ride" check list (check the operation of basic things; lights, switches, throttle, brakes, etc.) . Fortunately, I do this at least once a week. I discovered that my rear brake light switch was no longer operational. Fearing that a new switch would be expensive (more on that later), I decided to take mine apart to determine if it could be fixed before shelling out for a new one. By the way, the front brake micro-switch was still working so I could activate the brake light when stopping or slowing.

Here's the switch which is just inboard of the right foot peg (and nicely exposed to any water thrown by the rear tire). To remove the switch, I used a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the return spring from the brake lever pivot. You can leave the spring hanging from the switch, if you wish. Remove the right side bodywork panel and set it aside where it won't get damaged. Locate the switch's wiring connector (which is behind the turn signal relay) in its recess/support (the relay is to the rear and above the battery). Release the locking hook and separate the connector halves. Holding the knurled adjuster with an index finger & thumb, rotate the switch body, counter-clockwise, until you can pull the entire switch assembly from the circular lug (welded to the frame). You can now remove the return spring (if you haven't already), knurled adjuster and lower rubber water seal from the switch body. Set those parts aside, in a safe place.

Now the more difficult part of the process; pealing back the upper seal and removing the internals from the switch body. I have no pictures of this (sorry) and it will be hard to visualize unless you have the switch in front of you.

The upper seal can be pulled back from the top of the switch. However, the protective wiring sleeve is molded to the wires so that the protective sleeve will not slide. So, pulling back on the sealing cap will put undue stress on the wires at the top of the switch. I used a small screw driver to gently fold the cap back, thus turning it inside out, over the protective sleeve. Now you should have full access to the top of the switch body.

At the top of the switch (again no pictures - sorry) there is a white plastic plug held in the switch body (black plastic) by two protruding tabs. These tabs lock the plug in place by snapping into corresponding square holes in the switch body. You almost need three hands to release one of the tabs with a very small, flat-bladed screwdriver while squeezing the top of the switch body into an oval shape which (hopefully) will allow the other tab to release. It took me a few tries before coming loose. Resist the urge to pull on the wires, you may separate them from the flat, metal electrodes within the switch (thus compounding your issues).

Once you get the switch body to release the tabs on the plug, you'll see this:

Sorry for the poor picture quality, my cell phone camera was having trouble focusing on the small parts.

Here's a (somewhat) better image of the very dirty switch electrodes:

And the switch plunger:

It's pretty obvious that the issue is filthy electrical connection points but a closer inspection reveals actual wear:

Here's the switch plunger after being cleaned with a piece of Scotch-Brite. Notice the two grooves worn into the metal band on the plunger. The opposite side was worse (although hard to see):

On this side, there is an actual low spot where wear and corrosion have left a void. It obvious that the switch has been in one, un-adjusted position for its entire life. Given the fact that I will most likely have to properly adjust the switch, upon re-installation, the electrodes should not ride in those wear groves (hopefully).

I cleaned the (delicate) electrodes with some distilled white vinegar (which almost every household should have - if not, it's very cheap at the grocery store). You may also use fresh-squeezed lemon juice. Here they are after a chemical cleaning:

The tarnish is gone but there is still some actual dirt. So, I used a piece of 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper to remove the rest of the dirt. The ends of the electrodes are bent into a "v" shape so they will encircle the metal cylinder on the plunger. Using the folded edge of the sandpaper, I was able to get into the "v" and remove the remaining corrosion.

Ready for re-assembly.

I used the same piece of Scotch-Brite to clean the inside of the switch body. Simply place the plunger between the two electrodes and hold the plunger in place while sliding the switch body back into position. The electrodes also fit within recesses in the plug. Be sure they have not popped out. Orient the square holes so that the locking tabs snap into place. I used some silicone, on the switch body, to help the wiring harness cap seal better. I did the same with the lower sealing boot. See the red arrows.

The pink arrow indicates the knurled adjuster and the yellow arrow indicates the return spring. Installation is the reverse of removal; place the adjuster into the frame lug (you may need to remove the lower seal to get the switch body through the adjuster), screw the switch into the adjuster (clockwise), replace the lower seal (if necessary), hook the spring onto the switch plunger and then use needle-nose pliers to replace the spring onto the brake lever pivot arm. Don't forget to check the adjustment! To do so, plug the switch wiring connector back into the main harness (and secure the connector into the recess/support). Turn on the ignition (the headlight and tail light should illuminate). Press down on the brake pedal and observe the brake light. If the light comes on with the pedal depressed and goes off when the pedal is released, you're done.

If the brake light does not come on at all, the switch is too low (too close to the brake lever pivot). Hold the switch body steady and turn the adjuster clockwise (which will raise the switch body). Continue to test and adjust until the switch works properly.

If the brake light is on and stays on, the switch is too high (too far from the brake lever pivot). Hold the switch body steady and rotate the adjuster counter-clockwise (which will lower the switch body). Continue to test and adjust until the switch works properly.

Feel free to leave questions or comments in the Comments section. I'll do my best to respond to everyone.

Also, remember the fear about expensive switches and their availability? Total over-reaction. The switch is still available, from Honda (part #: 35350-MK3-405), for about $10 (US) as of this writing. I'll be ordering a new one so that when/if this one dies, a new one will replace it.

Haulin' yer Stuff

Over the past five years or so, I've commuted on various two wheeled vehicles. For the most part, I've been able to travel pretty lightly. Only for about two years did I require some type of water proof container to ensure that something electronic wasn't subjected to precipitation. During that time, I opted for a Outdoor Research dry bag and then switched over to a Seal Line messenger bag. Well, I've now opted for something else; a Wolf Tail bag made by Wolfman Luggage.

One of the reasons I switched away from the messenger bag was that is interfered with my jacket's ability to ventilate. In the Summer, that's not such a good thing. Secondly, the messenger bag's strap ground dirt into my hi-viz jacket making it look grungy. Fortunately, Shout! stain remover, a soft scrub brush and some elbow grease seems to get the jacket quite clean. I just don't like having to do it once a month. Additionally, I'm back to traveling "light" now that I can use my company's VPN to remotely connect to my laptop (which is secured to my desk via cable lock).

Granted, there are a few options when it comes to tail bags and there are waterproof ones out there. However, I wanted something that would fit on the rear of the VTR's seat as I had given up on fabricating a rear rack that would easily (the key word being easily) attach to the bike itself. I also took into account that I would be able to use the bag on my other bike, a Suzuki DR650SE. If that was not a consideration, I most likely would have gone with something like the Wolfman Peak tail bag. The Peak is smaller and would be a perfect fit for the VTR as it's dimensions are identical to the rear of the saddle (aft of the cross strap). However, it is not as easy to attach/remove as is the Wolf Tail. The Peak would require two straps to go under the saddle. Also, the Peak uses "gutter hooks" (their words) to secure the bag to the bike. If you choose to use the under saddle straps, the Peak straps have to be threaded through the rectangular buckles and then cinched down. The Wolf Tail uses elastic "shock" cord with hooks. It's as simple as putting the bag on the saddle and attaching the hooks. It shouldn't take more than a minute (whereas the Peak could take several minutes). The links provided (above), for the specific bags, have mounting instructions and video links. Check them out if you're seriously interested.

The other concern was the amount of space. In retrospect, I most likely would have been able to get everything I carry (which isn't much) into the Peak. However, for a dual sport ride, it's nice to have the additional space.

My daily "stuff" consists of;

• rain jacket
• rain pants
• external hard drive
• phone charging/USB cable
• keys (on a carabiner)
• pen
• waterproof over-boots
• security badge (building access)
• lunch (usually an apple and some yogurt)

The only thing I am not carrying now is the liner for my Olympia Bushwacker jacket. When it becomes cool enough, the liner will take the place of the rain jacket/pants combo. It will most likely take up more space but certainly won't fill the Wolf Tail.

Here are some pictures of the bag on the VTR and a couple by itself:

Here's the bag in "expanded" mode:

 

Here are a couple of close-up images showing the elastic straps and hook ends:

I'm not thrilled about the hook resting on the bodywork. I may try to make something to span between the turn signal mount and the reflector mount.

Here, the red arrows indicate the location of the elastic cords on the inside of the bag. The yellow arrow indicates the "shortening knot" I tied so the rear hook holds the bag tight to the saddle. I know things are a little hard to see, sorry.

Here's my cycling rain gear in its waterproof bag. My electronics are in there as well. The sides of the bag are supported by pieces of black plastic ("stiffeners"). They can be removed if you'd prefer the bag keep a low profile:

The top of the bag has a nice zippered, mesh pocket for keys and the like:

Here's the bag off of the bike. It carries like a small suitcase with the handle at the top. If you look closely, you can see "D" rings where the handle attaches to the bag (there's another set at the opposite end). So, if you wanted to carry a strap with hook ends, you could carry the bag over your shoulder.

The bag is not waterproof which is why I pack things in my cycling rain suit stuff sack and carry an eight (8) liter waterproof bag. However, it is water resistant (and I tested it). An inmate at Adventure Rider states that he applies 303 Aerospace Fabric Guard which makes the bag waterproof (or about as water resistant as can be). I've used the bag for a week: so far, so good.

Temperatures and Airflow - Pt. II

Alright, a while back I was postulating on the VTR's cooling system, coolant temperatures and airflow through the radiator. It's been pretty hot in Chicago-land, so far, this Summer. While July wasn't the hottest on record, it was pretty close. I've seen more 100º F days this year than I've seen since I've lived in the area (~20 years). The VTR continues to handle the heat with aplomb, it's me that worries about it.

I did check the system from a very basic stand point; the radiator is free of external debris that might be clogging the fins (and preventing airflow), if I ground the wire that runs from the fan to the thermo-switch, the fan does run (so the fan motor is OK), the radiator is properly grounded (so that when the switch does activate, the fan should come on) and the switch measures close to infinite ohms (resistance) when cold (as it should). What I have not tested is if the switch itself does work. This would require it being removed from the radiator and heated in a liquid until either it activates (resistance goes to zero) or the liquid reaches a temperature beyond the point where it should activate (which would indicate a failed switch). Obviously, I'll wait until riding season is over since I don't seem to have an issue, right now.

Additionally, we're dealing with a ~23 year old radiator. It's possible that it needs an internal flush to ensure that all of the cooling tubes are clear and functional. It's also possible that the coolant is way beyond its service life and is no longer efficiently conducting heat. Lastly, the thermostat could used to be replaced, if it's original equipment (which I suspect it is).

Again, due to the fact that the cooling system seems to be doing it's job, all of this can wait for Winter.

Commuter Gripe #1

It's been a while since I've been so wound up about commuting. Generally, I try to adopt a "Quaalude" attitude during the morning and evening rides so that I don't incinerate my tooth enamel by grinding my teeth. However, I've encountered the "Good Samaritan" too many times now to be silent anymore.

The "GS" is the person that stops traffic to allow someone to pull out from a side road or parking lot. Generally, if the "Entering Vehicle" stays in front of the "GS", it's OK. Traffic is momentarily slowed but no one is really in any danger except the GS (may be rear ended if someone is following too closely). When this occurs on a four lane non-divided highway and the "GS" stops traffic in their lane to allow "EV" to cross, traffic in the other lane but moving in the same direction as "GS" (green arrow) is now endangered. STOP PLAYING TRAFFIC COP you knucklehead! You have created a situation where not only have you put yourself in danger, from being rear ended, but you have also endangered people traveling in the same direction as you (but in the other lane - green arrow) as well as the person trying to cross traffic (EV).

What is the motivation here!? Are you feeling guilty because you cut someone off? Goodness knows you'll accelerate like crazy to keep another commuter from getting in front of you. Maybe you're genuinely a good person and are just being nice. Do you realize the danger you're creating for two (green arrow & EV), if not more, of your fellow motorists!?

Honestly, if you want to do this, go to Traffic School and become a Public Safety officer. Maybe next time you're in the grocery store you can allow someone to cut in line in front of you (and then incur the wrath of those behind you in line). Just STOP DOING IT before you get someone injured or worse.

Temperatures and Airflow

While I'm still very happy with the performance of the VTR, one thing concerns me (a little); overheating. There were times, during my previous commute, where the water temperature, as indicated by the dash gauge, crept towards the top end of the indicator zone (without entering the red portion). The ambient temperatures, at the time, were in the 70s (F). My immediate concern was what was going to happen when ambient temperatures reached into the 90s (F) or higher.

The obvious thing was to ensure that the thermostat was functioning properly. It is. The second concern was that the radiator was free of external debris (that is, the fins are not clogged with dirt or bugs or the fins aren't all bent). It is. The third concern was that the radiator is not clogged internally. It doesn't seem to be. Fourth, ensure that the coolant hasn't broken down and is up to the job. It is.

After all of those considerations, it seems that airflow, or lack thereof, is the key component to keeping the VTR cool. The bike does have a thermostatically controlled fan. However, it's hard to hear if it's running (when the motor is hot). I know some owners have retro-fitted a manual fan switch so that they can control when the fan operates, if they think the thermostatic switch has failed or if they don't want to wait for it to trigger the fan. Recently, I've been in some traffic situations where having a manual fan switch would have been beneficial. My wife and I recently rode thru some of Chicago's northern suburbs. The ride 'out' was relatively slow due to traffic and traffic signals. There were several times when I was keeping a wary eye on the temperature gauge. However, the ride home, following the same streets, had less traffic and we managed to time the traffic signals so that we were stopped less often. The needle on the temperature gauge never moved above half-way (the ambient temperature was higher, too).

So, it would seem that air flowing thru the radiator, regardless of ambient temperature, is important in keeping the VTR cool. My current commute is very conducive to constant movement. That is, traffic flows quite well and quickly thus aiding air flow thru the radiator. However, it wouldn't take much (an accident or a freight train - there are several grade crossings on my commute) to turn an eight mile (twenty minute) ride into a coolant boiling catastrophe. Perhaps a manual fan override switch is in order, now that Summer is here (or will be in a few days). Stay tuned for another "How To" post...

Validation

Well, it's been just over a week of commuting to my new office location. I have to say that the VTR has performed flawlessly and I'm glad I decided to buy it. As with any roads that lead to a major airport, the traffic pace is quick and the flow can be heavy, especially in the afternoons. However, the VTR has been up to the task. I'm sure the NX125 would have really struggled. I am kind of curious about the Honda CB125R though. I would how that would have performed.

After a close inspection of the tires, during a wash, I noticed that they were pretty old (nine years for the front, twelve years for the rear). So, I took advantage of Motorcycle Superstore's Memorial Day sale and purchased a set of Bridgestone BT-45 Battleax tires. They come pretty highly recommended, from other VTR owners, as well as the general population of motorcycle tire purchasers (as indicated by the feedback on the web site). They seemed OK on this morning's ride (8 miles is not a large sample size). I did notice that they do not seem to be affected by the grooves left by the concrete grinder (one of the roads, on which I ride, was ground down to provide a smoother surface - as opposed to being re-surfaced). The old Bridgestones would wiggle a little while riding. Unfortunately, the grooves are in the direction of travel which is why the tires would track differently.

There is a possibility of thunderstorms this afternoon so I might even get a chance to see what the BT-45s are like in the rain. To be honest, I was hoping to scuff them in a little more before trying them out in the wet. New tires can be slick until the surface has been roughed up and it helps to have a few heat cycles, in them, was well. Fingers crossed that it stays dry (we could really use the rain though....)

More Noise

One of the few complaints I've had, concerning my VTR250R, is the lack of exhaust "note". It is exceptionally quiet and I have a hard time hearing it even when I'm sitting at a stop light (disclaimer; in an effort to avoid further damage to my hearing, I used to race loud cars, I wear Hearos foam ear plugs). So, in an effort to increase the exhaust note without being obnoxious, I removed a portion of the end cap. A big thanks goes to the guys on VTR250.com forum boards. A few of them have already done this and it does not require any carburetor work (re-jetting, etc.). It's a 'simple' muffler modification.

Thanks to VTR250.com forum-mate John, here's a great image of what we're going to accomplish:

image courtesy of John Hilmer

The upper muffler is a stock unit. The lower muffler, which is actually attached to the exhaust system on John's bike, has been modified. If you look closely at the upper muffler, you'll see a distinct ridge (most noticeable at about 7 o'clock). That's a weld line and makes a perfect locator for the larger (2") hole saw.

Notes:

• A lot of torque is generated by the drill (I used a 1/2" drill but I think a 3/8" would work OK, too). It is not uncommon to have the bit catch and wrench the drill from your hand. Hold the drill securely.
• The muffler is round which makes it hard to clamp in a vice or other securing device. So, leave the muffler on the bike, for now.
• Most hole saws work best at lower RPM (200). You don't need to be at maximum RPM of the drill to get good results.
• Be sure to use some cutting lubricant (drain oil, WD-40, Marvel Mystery Oil, etc.).

1/2" drill with stabilizing handle and 2" hole saw

The above image shows the set-up I used for the hole saws. I happen to have a auxiliary handle for my drill. In my previous experience with holes saws, I find it useful to have the extra handle. If you don't have one, be sure to maintain a firm grip on the drill and use a lower RPM. That way, if the bit does catch in the work, it won't wrench the drill from your hand. Do Not use the trigger lock (for obvious reasons).

Above, I've started cutting using that previously described welding ridge as a guide. I'm not using a pilot bit because there's nothing for the bit to drill into. Use some newspaper or cardboard to catch the metal chips (there will be a lot) and the cutting oil drips (the oil may run down the underside of the muffler and drip, to the ground, near the swing arm pivot. Make sure you have enough coverage). Note: wear hearing protection. The saw, cutting through the steel, makes a lot of noise.

Here, I've completed the cut. Notice the amount of metal chips on the muffler. There's at least twice as much on the ground and maybe three times as much inside the muffler.

Now, make the second cut. You have a choice here; 1 - you can use a 1.125" ( 1 1/8") hole saw which as an inner diameter of 1". The inner diameter, of the hole saw, is the same size as the outer diameter of the tube that protrudes from the end cap. However, the tube that's hidden behind the end cap has a diameter of 1.125" (1 1/8") which is the same size as the hole saw.

If you look closely, you can see the outer diameter, of the protruding tube, is shiny and has had some material removed. However, as you cut through the end cap, you cut right into the tube on the opposite side  of the end cap, resulting in this:

If you would prefer not to cut into that inner tube, you could go with choice 2 and select the next larger size hole saw; 1.250" (1 1/4"). This will allow you to cut through the end cap and not cut into the hidden tube. However, you will not have anything to help you center the hole saw. If you're of steady hand, you should be able get the cut started, albeit slowly, and get the results as shown in the first image (provided by John). Note the amount of metal chips generated by the cut. There's more hiding inside the muffler can.

Here's the (small) piece that we removed. To complete the job, you're going to need to remove the muffler (unless you don't mind shooting metal chips out the back of your bike - actually, given the small amount of air coming from the motor, there may not be enough pressure to do that). Unbolt the muffler from the hanger and loosen the clamp.

view from ground level

If your VTR is anything like mine, it's going to take some wiggling of the muffler to loosen it from the sealing gasket. The bike is going to want to roll backwards. Resist the urge to use your left foot as a chock. If the muffler suddenly comes loose, it's going to hit the inside of your left knee. And, that's going to hurt, bad (I did it twice so I know).

Here I have the muffler removed. The red arrow indicates the sealing gasket. Hopefully yours is in as good a condition. I used a little Scotch-Brite to remove the surface rust. If yours is shot, you may want to consider replacing it. I wouldn't be surprised if there's some asbestos in that gasket. Use caution when dealing with it.

Removing the metal debris, from within the muffler should be pretty simple. I just kept shaking the muffler until chips stopped falling out. However, due to the shape of the end cap, chips can get trapped. I have one of those small magnets on a (telescoping) handle. A few passes collected a lot of additional chips. I was surprised at how much more came out. I purchased a drum shaped grinding stone to help smooth the ragged edges from the hole saws. In retrospect, I should have purchased a cone shaped stone instead. I have a Roto-Zip tool and elected to buy the drum shaped stone from Dremel. However Vermont-American makes grinding stones that will work in a drill (they have a larger diameter arbor). V-A sells both drum and cone shaped stones. Again, choose the cone shape.

Results: Upon initial start up I was a little disappointed as the sound wasn't that much greater than the unmodified muffler. However, after the ride to work this morning, I'm pretty happy. The exhaust note can clearly be heard (over traffic and through my ear plugs). I seem to notice a "drone" right around 4500 RPM but it quickly dissipates above 5000 RPM. I also think I will try some muffler paint or BBQ grille paint before the exposed metal starts to rust.

Tools used:

• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 12mm socket
• 12mm open/box end wrench
• ball peen hammer
• drift
• 2" hole saw with arbor (Milwaukee brand)
• 1 1/8" (alt. 1 1/4") hole saw with arbor (Milwaukee brand)
• 1/2" drill with aux. handle
• Grinding stone (cone shaped - Vermont-American)
• Magnet on a telescoping handle